Every summer, without fail, I pack my sunhat, notebook, and boundless curiosity and head straight for Tuscia – one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. My destination? Bolsena, a postcard-perfect village perched on the shores of the mesmerising Lake Bolsena, the largest volcanic lake in Europe.
It’s my happy place, my creative recharge station, and quite literally, my writing sanctuary. I always stay at the delightful B&B Bolsena Cento20, where I’ve claimed “my” room – the one with the breath-taking lake view that has inspired more words than I can count.
There’s something utterly magical about waking up to the glimmer of sunlight dancing on the water, hearing the bells of the medieval borgo chime in the distance, and knowing that the day ahead will be filled with dolce vita moments.
A hidden gem in the heart of Lazio
For those scratching their heads, Tuscia isn’t a theme park (though it sounds like one). It’s a historical region that once belonged to the Etruscans, Italy’s mysterious ancient civilisation, before the Romans took over and renamed it. Today it lies in northern Lazio, about 90 minutes north of Rome – lush, green, dotted with hilltop villages, olive groves, and a sense of calm that’s increasingly rare in modern Italy.
My childhood friend Donatella has lived here for two decades. Thanks to her, I’ve been introduced to corners of Tuscia that no guidebook could ever capture.
Lake life, Italian style
Don’t be fooled by the word “lake” – Bolsena feels like the seaside. The water is crystal clear, warm in summer, and framed by little beaches and wooden piers perfect for a dip or a lazy afternoon reading under a parasol.
When the sun goes down, the town comes alive. Imagine: open-air disco nights by the lake, live bands playing under the stars, everyone dancing barefoot on the sand while heart-shaped fireworks make the dark skies super romantic. It’s summer at its finest – joyous, spontaneous, and a little bit wild.
And if you have a sweet tooth like me and my son, you’ll want to join my gelato tour of Bolsena! The town boasts at least three artisanal gelaterie – all heavenly. My personal favourite? The pistachio and ricotta from Gelateria Santa Cristina, named after the town’s patron saint.
Saints, celebrations, and a touch of the miraculous
Speaking of Santa Cristina, the town’s devotion to her is the heart of local life. Each July, Bolsena transforms for her feast -a week of processions, medieval pageantry, music, and fireworks that blend the sacred and the celebratory in perfect Italian fashion. The famous Corpus Domini “Infiorata”, when streets are carpeted with intricate flower mosaics, is pure magic – a kaleidoscope of colours and petals underfoot. It’s a celebration of faith, art, and community that leaves visitors wide-eyed and moved.
Fairy tales and dying cities
A few kilometres from Bolsena lie some of Italy’s most enchanting sights. There’s Civita di Bagnoregio, known as “the dying city” – a tiny medieval village balanced precariously on a cliff of crumbling volcanic rock. Only reachable via a footbridge (and a small toll that magically disappears at night), it looks like something out of a fantasy film. In fact, it’s so cinematic that stars like Jude Law and Harry Styles have dined there – at Osteria al Forno di Agnese, where the owner Raffaele still serves Nonna Agnese’s recipes with pride.
(PHOTO 12 & 13 & 14)
And then, for something straight out of a fairy tale, there’s Capodimonte – where, legend has it, the real-life Beauty and the Beast once lived! Yes, really. The tale of the noble Gonzales family, who inspired the famous story, unfolded right here on the shores of Lake Bolsena.
Civita di Bagnoregio
Full feature in the London Mums magazine Christmas 2025 edition. You can read it here.
https://new.londonmumsmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/LondonMums_WINTER-25_Online.pdf
